As the final, frenzied week of spring ready-to-wear shows began in the French capital, the country’s most influential stylist was nowhere to be found.

He wouldn’t be in the front row (he never attends the shows). He might not even be in town. And even if he were, he would make a point of staying below the radar.

Now that stylists are media stars in their own right, that’s a rare situation. Consider the surging profile of the self-described illusionist Arianne Phillips, the costume designer for Katy Perry, Madonna, “Kingsman” and more. Or that of Karla Welch, who has engineered red carpet looks for Elisabeth Moss, Ruth Negga and Sarah Paulson as well as Justin Bieber and Lorde.

But as the stylist that Brigitte Macron — the first lady of France, one of the inspirations for the new acronym WHIP (“women who are hot, intelligent and in their prime”) — enlisted, Mathieu Barthelat Colin has somewhat different priorities.

Powerful public relations executives deny knowing him (if they even return an inquiring call). Ask in person and they change the subject. Designers whose clothes the first lady has worn are quick to say they have never met him, either (they’re dying to, obviously). Locate a willing intermediary and Mr. Barthelat, as he is known, will decline — politely, firmly, repeatedly — to be interviewed. Like Meredith Koop, the stylist to Michelle Obama from 2009 to 2016, he prefers life behind the scenes.

Even online, he hasn’t left many traces. Aside from references to long-ago stints in the communications departments at midlevel brands like Zadig & Voltaire, Cerruti and Loft Design By, scant details turn up in a Google search. On Instagram, Mr. Barthelat is more inclined to post scenes of his home in Burgundy than anything fashion-related.

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The Style of Brigitte Macron MAY 15, 2017
It’s as if the 34-year-old materialized out of nowhere when, in June, the website of the French magazine Gala posted a video in which the tall, dashing, bearded stylist was shown (for a couple of seconds) helping a candidate for the French version of “The Bachelor” into a white jacket. Compared with the bachelor, Mr. Barthelat, who was wearing a white oxford shirt and gray V-neck sweater, was noticeably ill at ease in front of the camera. He has also dressed both jury members and candidates for the French version of “The Voice” in a mix of styles and price ranges.

But reality TV is not what paved his way to the Élysée Palace.

Mr. Barthelat recognized Mrs. Macron at the theater late last year, before she became a media darling. In a fan moment, he worked up the courage to introduce himself. The call came shortly thereafter.

Mrs. Macron’s style has always skewed less-is-more. Judging by her public appearances since they began working together this year, Mr. Barthelat’s influence has been both subtle and significant.

The first lady has been loyal to Louis Vuitton, wearing designs by its artistic director, Nicolas Ghesquière, a friend whose runway shows she attended before becoming a public figure. Other classic French names in her wardrobe include Balmain, Courrèges and Dior.

But recently she has also taken to wearing sharp jackets by lesser known designers and labels: Alexandre Vauthier (in red or black), Stéfanie Renoma (powder blue) and the tailoring specialist Pallas (beige, at the G20 meeting in July in Hamburg, Germany), the better to cast a halo around a larger group of French names.

And it’s not just about high fashion. Jewel-neck tops and other separates by midrange French brands like ba&sh, Sandro, Georges Rech and Paule Ka have appeared in the mix. On a state visit to Greece in September she was spotted wearing a Greek-coin “Profile” ring by Marc Auclert, whose designs incorporate antique artifacts and who is one of the few designers willing to discuss the effect of her favor.

“For an unknown designer like me, it’s wonderful to be in the spotlight,” Mr. Auclert said, “but at the same time it’s not about the brand. It’s brainier than that.

“Mrs. Macron epitomizes the 21st-century woman, particularly because of her intellect. That’s the new generation. That’s Mathieu. His service is all about excellence and expertise. It’s so much more interesting than being a name brand. He’s the key.”

Like everyone else, Mr. Auclert said he would love to meet Mr. Barthelat one day.

Source: nytimes.com